Wednesday 1 February 2017

Historic Sivasagar


Heewohagor; as originally pronounced by the locals is really historic! Lets read this article to know why...

The area Sivasagar was the Ahom administrative seat for most of the years of their around 600 years long ruling period. There is hardly any place in and around the modern city of Sivasagar without some unique historical importances. Located at a very middle position of the Tai Ahom inhabited area of the state; Sivasagar is still regarded as the headquarter of this ethnic group of  the west portion of South East Asia.

During their rule the Ahoms constructed above 50 numbers of Dol (temples and temple like monuments)s; monuments of other categories as well as other structures in various places of Sivasagar. They had made a great number of tanks and ponds of different sizes too in modern Sivasagar and Charaideo districts - above 300 in numbers. Most of them were destroyed mainly due to the earthquakes. However the major cause of destruction in modern period is lack of preservation and maintenance as well as unhealthy industrial growth for these monuments.

The word sagar (originally pronounced locally as Hagor) literally mean sea. Visitors can feel the use of this term very proper; experiencing the titanic size of such sagars.

FACTS
  • Chowlung Syukapha; a prince from the Tai Province of Myoung Mao established Ahom Kingdom comprising far eastern portions of the modern states of Arunachal Pradesh, Assam and Nagaland.
  • Ahoms independently ruled over Brahmaputra valley as the leading power of Western Part of South East Asia from 1228 AD to 1826 AD.
  • Chowlung means Great Dragon King (Chow = Great/Holy, Lung = Dragon/Full of Virtues); while Chowpha means Heavenly King (Chow = Respectful/Lord/King/Ruler, Pha/Fa= Heaven/A Place Where Exist Only Strict Righteousness, Discipline, Law and Order). In the history of Ahoms Chowlung Syukapha is regarded as the only Chowlung till now. Swargadeo is the Assamese meaning of Ahom word Chowpha.
  • The official name of the Kingdom of the Ahoms was Myoung - Dun - Chaun - Kham; literally Land Full of Golden Gardens.
For the most of the years of their history the Tai Ahoms ruled over Assam from the capital cities of Garhgaon and Rongpur near the modern city of Sivasagar.

The Sivasagar tank, also known as Borpukhuri has the city heart on its bank; with the most attractive view of the city. The tank covers an area of around 130 acres. The depth is around 60 feet. The surface of the water is higher than the surrounding plains. Sivadol is the tallest structure on the bank, visible from almost every corners of city proper. Two other temples - Vishnudol and Devidol are situated within Sivadol campus.

Assam Tai Museum on the 'Bank of Borpukhuri' (Borpukhuripar) is regarded as the second most important museum in the state after Assam State Museum, showcasing many valuable collections. The Buddhist Vihar, Church and Masjid are some attractive modern structures added to the city heart.

Nobody should miss the ancient capital city of Rongpur which is situated side by side modern Sivasagar. The name is originally derived from the Ahom word Che (Ahom) = town / city (English) = pur / nagar (Assamese) and Mun (Ahom) = enjoy / happiness (English) = rong / ananda (Assamese); so literally the Town of Enjoyment. Rongpur remained Ahom metropolis from 1695 AD to 1795 AD.

Rangghar is the first amphitheater of Asia just outside the capital city of Rongpur at Rupohi Pothar. The two storied beautiful wooden building was constructed by King Rudrasingha to entertain public during Rongali Bihu with various means of games, sports and cultural exhibitions. Temporary bamboo pavilion was made inside the rampart (the surviving portion now have become a wall) of the campus. King Pramatta Singha replaced the wooden structure with bricks in the year 1748, having golden brown color. Another small Rangghar was made by him too, used only for the royals for short entertainment programs does not exist now. Both sides of the amphitheater has two dragon heads; having three Dol like structures between them.

FACTS
  • The ancient name of Sivasagar proper was Kolonchupar. After the construction of Borpukhuri (Larger Tank) or Sivasagar tank the place came to be known as Sivapur and remained so till the British occupation of Ahom Kingdom.
  • In the year 1838 British officials shifted the headquarters of Upper Assam from Rongpur to the modern city on the bank of Borpukhuri and thus the name Sivasagar officially adopted and started to develop as a modern town. Before that almost entire modern districts of Sivasagar and Charaideo were known as Rongpur.
Talatal Ghar and Joysagar tank is situated near Rangghar. Talatal Ghar, the second residence of the Ahom Swargadeos from the rule of Rudrasingha was originally a seven storied building. Three underground and four over ground. Now only one floor is in a good condition. The lower floors has now no way for entrance. Top three floors were destroyed. But still the poorly preserved and researched place worth visiting; visitors may imagine the old glory of this gigantic sized structure. It is strongly believed, having historical proof that the bottom most ground of Talatal Ghar has two underground tunnels to the nearby Dikhow river and another to the old capital city of Gharhgaon at a 10 km distance. Suspicion and measurements to prove this fact as unreal is more than that of real inquiry and neutral researches.

Golaghar or Kharghar is situated to the south - west direction of Talatal Ghar within Rongpur campus; where arms and ammunition were stored. The building was constructed by Swargadeo Rudrasingha in the year 1704. The holes on the building walls were used to place medium sized canons against any possible attack.

Joysagar is situated outside of old Rongpur city area. Joysagar tank is one among the largest man made water bodies in the world. The tank, summoned by King Rudrasingha needed only 45 days to be completed. It was dedicated to his mother at Jerenga Pothar, where his mother Kunwori Joymoti attained martyrdom for the sake of country. As the dead body of Joymoti was not found he established a gold image of her at her possible death place to the north of the tank, to construct a stone and brick Maidam; looks more like a Dol but with a flat top. Princes Joymoti's symbolic Maidam is also known as Fakuwa Dol as the Assamese festival of color was observed there. The Rangnath Sivadol is adjacent to this Maidam. The north - eastern bank of Joysagar has five Dols : Keshabrai Vishnu Dol, Vaidyanath Siva Dol, Sri Surjya Mandir, Sri Ganesh Mandir and Devidol, Keshabrai. Vishnu Dol is also known as Joydol due to its charm, generally make visitors memorize the real cause of the construction of the grand campus. The Dol also has an image of King Rudrasingha riding on horseback.

The entire Joysagar site was constructed by king Rudrasingha (1696 -1714) having Ghanashyam Khanikar as the main architect. Ghanashyam Khanikoror Ghor (The House of Architect Ghanashyam) is still under a situation to be explored. The person from the western portion of Assam (Koch Rajbongshi Territory of Assam Proper, now under North Bengal) had designed some of the Ahom architectural masterpieces over old geometry of wooden buildings. Sadly he had to be executed due to the fact that he tried to draw, stole and carry Ahom engineering and architectural secrets of the metropolis.Constructed during the reign of Rajeswar Singha (1751 - 1769); his Ghor, a monument dedicated to him is the place where visitors can witness the best terracotta art of the indigenous artist at the south - west corner of Joysagar tank.

Between the Old Rongpur and the modern city of Sivasagar visitors can see a famous suspension bridge of Assam, known as Dikhowr Kopi Loga Dollong; popular throughout the state, constructed in the year 1935. It was the second bridge of Braithwaite Co. (India) Ltd, Calcutta; the maker of Howrah Bridge. The bridge is now restricted for vehicles. Sadly it was a bridge which gave passes for the ships of river Dikhou to the mighty river Luit; having no function now.

Uttaran Jadughar (The Uttaran Museum) at Borduar of Joysagar is a must to experience attraction while visiting Sivasagar. An initiative of Durlabh Borah. Check it if you want to feel your Sivasagar trip to be really completed. It is a example that individuals can do and maintain better than the government in some cases in Assam.

Kareng Ghar - The Royal Palace of the Ahom Swargadeos at old capital city Garhgaon site is the best place to experience Ahom engineering and architecture. It is a seven storied grand structure, regarded as the finest medieval architecture and tourist hotspot in North East India.

FACTS
  • Sivasagar Tank, Sivadol, Vishnudol and Devidol was constructed by the second Chief Queen of King Sivasingha; Ambika from 1733 AD to 1734 AD.
  • Having beautiful designs Rangghar, Kareng Ghar and Talatal Ghar had wooden doors and windows, which were later used at the office of Assam Tea Company at Nazira.
Gaurisagar is also a very popular tourist site of Sivasagar for international tourists, having four Dols on a giant tank; constructed by Bor Raja Fuleswari - the first chief queen of Swargadeo Sivasingha. Among the Dols; Gorokhiya Dol became almost a ruin due to natural causes. The tank Gaurisagar is ranked just after Joysagar. Gaurisagar has a stone bridge too, namely Namdang Heelor Haknu over a small tributary river Namdang, giving the national highway a space for connectivity. Almost 300 years old, the bridge witnessed war tanks of WW II and 1950's deadly earthquake. Now experiencing havoc from climatic condition and neglect regarding proper preservative measures. The bridge has a special reputation for the researchers of ancient engineering.

Now if you are going to Charaideo Maidam Site, remember the fact that the first permanent capital of the Ahom dynasty is the most important tourist attraction of Sivasagar. The original name was Che - Rai - Doi in Tai Ahom language; meaning Che = Town, Rai = Bright, Doi = Hill; so - The Bright Town Atop Hill. But the official name was Che - Tam - Doi Che - Lung - Kham and generally called as Che - Doi - Kham, Doi - Che, Doi - Che - Lung or simply Doi. It remained capital city almost for 173 years from Chowlung Syuakapha to Chowpha Taokhamti. Almost all of the members of Royal Ahom Ruling Families were buried at Charaideo. However the heads of the last independent Chutiya king and Turbak Hussain Khan (Commander in Chief of Indian Sultanate's Bengal Region) was buried at Charaideo too according to the customary tribute system of the Ahoms. One being a neighboring king and other for his vigorous warfare; who lost his last battle against the might of Ahom women militia.

The maidams were mainly designed with a vault to preserve the bodies of deceased royal members and a wooden or brick mausoleum over where vast quantity of soil was laid spherically; having a temple like structure at the top. Most of the maidams are two storied with a few three storied maidams. Visitors can see hundreds of maidams with different sizes line by line at Charaideo within a area of around 6 km radius. The area was actually much larger but occupied by many arrogant occupiers and so why now the Grand Royal Burial Ground is remained limited within a small radius. Charaideo is regarded as the most sacred spiritual site not only by the real Ahoms but also all the ethnic people of the region who are grateful towards the greatness for this mighty Tai group on Brahmaputra valley; but still not preserved and maintained properly.

The looting of the maidams was started in 1662 AD. Charaideo - one of the most important tourist sites of Assam still need more care, supervision, preservation and development.

The district has two Dargahs of sufi saints; a place of prayer and worship for all. Ajan Peer Dargah at Charaguri Chapori and Harat Khokander Peer Dargah at Panbecha, just at a few km distance from the district headquarter.

Sri Sri Ramkhapith Devalaya is situated at Dikhowmukh. Ramkhapith was established by the Kachari and Chutiya kings 800 years before the arrival of the Ahoms according to the popular oral traditions. In 1240 Chowlung Syukapha organized his victory ceremony there. However the temple was built only in the year 1869 by King Lakshmi Singha.

Apart from the historical monuments, Sivasagar also provide good facility for nature enthusiasts; specially that of bird lovers due to the presence of Pani Dihing Bird Sanctuary at just a distance of around 15 km from the city. Bakhor Bengena is another prime natuaral attraction within an typical rural environment of Sivasagar. All the attempts to reproduce Bakhor Bengena tree (Rendia Ulizinsa) have been failed. The 30 feet high 700 years old tree is located at Bakata - Patsaku area, a few km from the city. Ahom kings preserved this tree and according to the tradition Ancient Chinese Royal Campus also had such tree. According to some of the traditions the Bakhor Bengena tree was send as a gift from Chinese Court to Borahi Court and accordingly King Mahamanikya planted the tree, following Royal Mongolian Tradition of the period before Ahom Age had started.

Here if you finished your sightseeing - I think Disang Mukh, Dilihi Mukh (here the word mukh means confluence of two rivers) and Borxil (locally pronounced Borhil) are some of the picturesque spots where you should go for great relaxation and if interested to have a small picnic party. Do not forget that Disang Mukh host The Disang Mukh Festival at every winter to entertain tourists with rural accommodation, dance, music and local delicacies.

Other Attractions of the District
Names : Types : Current Status
  • Dijokona Stone Bridge    : Engineering / Architecture    Endangered
  • Rohdoi Stone Bridge    : Engineering / Architecture    : Endangered
  • Nafuk Stone Bridge   : Engineering / Architecture   : Endangered
  • Chintamoni Garh or Kotarikhona Garh    : Engineering/Rampart    : Almost Extinct
  • Rupohijan (Rampart's Man made Stream)    : Engineering    : Almost Extinct
  • Moglow Pukhuri    : Pond/Monument    : Preserved
  • Harmoti Garh    : Engineering/Rampart    : Endangered
  • Thowra Dol    : Architecture/Monument     Preserved
  • Bogidol and Pond    : Architecture/Monument    : Preserved
  • Rudrasagar    : Tank/Monument    : Endangered
  • Gojpuria Ali or Bor Ali (Road) and Eta Jan (Man Made Stream)Engineering : Almost Extinct
  • Institute of Tai Studies and Research, Moran    : Educational and Research    : Active
  • Joysagar College    : Educational Hub    : Active
  • Maheswar Dol or Garakhiya Dol, Mai Dol and Pond Architecture/Monument   Endangered
  • Khonakhukura Pukhuri and Silpukhuri (Ponds), Puroni Ali (Road), Nitai Pukhuri (Pond), Kopon Pukhuri (Pond), Bhoga Pukhuri (Pond)and Tangondhowa Pukhuri (Pond) located on the way from Garhgaon to Ramkhapith    Historical Monuments    Preserved
How to Reach
  • The nearest airports are at Dibrugarh, Jorhat and Dimapur.
  • Though the city has a train station, the major trains passes through Simaluguri Railway Junction.
  • Almost all the major cities of north - east India has good road connectivity with Sivasagar.
  • Adventurous visitors in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Combodia and South China may come to Sivasagar via Myanmar.
How to Explore Sivasagar
Apart from hired SUVs; Tuktuks are another best option to explore the city and other surrounding attractions. Most of the Tuktuk drivers are aware of Sivasagar's tourism. Some of them are even good in speaking English. Travelers may try to hire such one. Tuktuks are colorful and resemble their Thai counterparts. According to our latest information the Tuktuks are mostly replaced by Battery Rickshaw.


By Pradyut Pawan Gogoi in collaboration with Bhupati Raj Baruah.
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UPDATES


  • Kati Bihu; the Festival of Light will be celebrated on 19th October 2019 in Assam to bring prosperity and wealth.

  • Ziro Music Festival; the Top-rated music festival of Northeast India will be held from 26th to 29th September 2019 in Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh.

  • Oktoberfest; the world's largest beer festival and travelling funfair will be held from 21st September to 06th October 2019 in Munich, Germany.

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